Yea!! I was able to spend some time sewing today. I am working on a couple of simple daygowns. My plan is to finish constructing them and add some simple embroidery. Nothing fancy and over the top. I also am working on a bonnet to match the Circa 1920 French Handsewn Gown. While working on the daygowns, attaching bias binding to the neck and binding to the sleeves, I found myself reaching for another favorite.
I first posted about a pair of scissors in this post before Christmas. Those black Dovo scissors are my go to when trimming French Seams. They are great but like of what I call my husband's "special tools," not all tools are equal for all tasks.
When attaching bias binding to a gathered neck or sleeve you create a bulkier seam allowance. The method I use when applying a bias binding is to stitch the binding seam twice, 1/8" apart, trimming, then turning under the bias to whip stitch it down. I trim the remainder of my seam allowance right up next to that second stitching before turning and whipping. (Jeannie B has shown this in her Priscilla lessons here.) In order to have good control over my scissors as well as what can be a scant amount of fabric, I use serrated scissors. The black Dovos are not meant for seam allowances that may have more bulk to them. For that job, I use a 6inch serrated scissors from Gingher.
I left this picture quite large so that when you click on it, you can see the serrated blade.
See those teeny teeth? They are magic when trying to trim within a thread or two of the stitching. They grab the fabric and allow me to trim smoothly without all of those wonky knicks. One clean cut does it.I see in that close up that my scissors need sharpening. On occasion I will gather a several of my Ginghers together and send them back to Gingher to be sharpened. Oh my word, you would swear you are getting a new pair of scissors back! I highly recommend this process as opposed to Bubba who has set up a booth outside the grocery store every few weeks. (disclaimer: I know there are some great scissor guys out there, but I have had a better experience by sending them to Gingher.) Gingher has a speedy turn around and they come back clean, balanced and razor sharp.
Again I hope all of you are staying warm and have time to take a stitch or two.
I love my Ginghers!!! I am getting ready to make a smocked dress again. I am thinking about doing a bishop. The fabric is a fine welt corduroy. I need to do the technique where the seam doesn't have to go through the pleater. I know you did a tutorial on this. Can you tell me the name of the post or the date so I can go back and read it? Thanks
ReplyDeleteJulia if this link does not work you can copy and paste or find the links on the side bar under tutorials. The direct link is:
ReplyDeletehttp://southernmatriarch.blogspot.com/2009/04/seamless-pleating-tutorial.html
You will also need to reduce the width of all five pieces or you will never get the entire thing in the neck binding. I would take an inch off of the front and back and a half inch out of each sleeve. Good luck and I hope you will send me pictures.
Martha....thanks for this link to Gingher for sharpening scissors! I have been known to buy a new pair in a pinch because my best ones were not where I was...TN, FL, etc.
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