The Last of the Easter Sewing

The last of Easter for this year. Its still the Easter season! We have until Pentecost to celebrate all that is Easter. I am fortunate enough to belong to a local SAGA chapter that hosts a teacher once or twice a year. Lately it has been twice a year. Last fall we hosted Gail Doane. She taught a class I have long wanted to take, Primrose.

It is the cover garment on Country Bumpkin's Beautiful Bishops book. I love this little set. Even if it did about do me in.

I was fortunate enough to be able to stitch this in blue and pink as opposed to the white with yellow for our our blonde, blue eyed girl. The collar really does lie down in person, my mannequin has a neck issue I guess.

She has just woken up from a quick nap in the warm car ride home from mass Easter morning, but you can see the collar does lie flat. Her fairy wand firmly clutched in her hand. The fabric is Swiss voile so even though she had just gotten out of a carseat it is not nearly as wrinkled as Swiss batiste would be. I am not sure what it is about voile that makes it less resistant to wrinkles, but I will take it.

I didn't realize until AFTER Easter that I had left the thread marking the center in place. You can see the yellow shadow. No secrets here! I had blogged before about those rayon cast-on pansies here. The ones on the jacket look much better than the ones on the bishop. It never did get the bows done on the bishop. If you enlarge this picture you can see that some of my pansies looks as if someone stepped on them. The mistake I made was trying to tack down the petals as I went instead of when I had finished the flower. So it splayed some of my flowers. I am going with the galloping horse theory here. I will say that if you want to improve your cast-on stitches do 100+ of them in rayon. When you go back to cotton they will seem like a breeze!

This design is beautiful and classic in its simplicity, but don't let its simplicity trick you into thinking quick. Not true! But I love it. She loved it. All were happy. And I adore the blue with pink.

The hem has something else I love, tucks.

The jacket also features lots of tucks on the front and back. I realized I neglected to take a picture of the back. It is a small miracle that the fabric of the left front of the jacket is intact. Because a mind is a terrible thing to lose, the tucks on the left front were done and re-done four times. Yes you read that right, four times. I about lost what was left of my mind. There are also tucks down the center sleeves. I didn't do a very good job of photos taking this time, did I?

All in all even though it took many more hours to complete than expected, seeing it on Princess made it worth it. Again clutching her fairy princess wand. 

That concludes the Easter stitching for this year. Happy Easter!

Next up in the sewing room, Young Master's First Birthday is next month. Here comes Peter Cottontail, again! This time I am stitching Gwen Milner's Revised Version from Sew Beautiful Issue #152.

Until next time, faithful reader. Keep on stitching.

Happy Birthday Southern Matriarch

Wow, SIX years! I would have never believed when I first posted on May 14, 2008, that six years later I would still be here. I will admit those first years the posting was more prolific. Life is just plain busy, what can I say? There were no grandchildren then and two of our four kids still lived here. Now everyone is scattered from hither to yon, so I spend a lot of time in the car. Or stitching trying to keep up with these 3.5 grandchildren. What else can I say?

FOUR HUNDRED TWENTY FOUR! What is that? That is the number of items I have made in the past six years. That is a LOT! That number doesn't include this year. That is one thing blogging has done for me, it has allowed me to keep a log of the things I make. Granted some of those 424 were multiples of small items like table favors for chapter classes etc, but still 424 is pretty impressive to me. I need these reminders when I feel like I don't get anything done.  I probably have almost that many UFO's as well.

Part of what keeps Southern Matriarch going is the emails, the questions and the comments. I love answering your questions and I want to do more tutorials. I love the emails that ask "are you okay" when this page has gone quiet too long or "I enjoy your blog". I love the comments that you leave, though comments don't seem to be as frequent on any blog as they used to be. Not sure why that is. There has also been the chance to mentor other stitchers who found my little place on the web. That is ALWAYS a thrill. It is a real charge to get photos back of the garments others have made with my help.

I have met some incredible people through this simple format. So many people walk up and introduce themselves when I attend classes, workshops and stitching events. I even have had people come to my front door to introduce themselves. It is always a pleasure.

This blog also brought me the opportunity to be published a few times. Though I will admit to feeling a little like the kiss of death, both publications have ceased publication or will soon after I had designs published. I would like to believe that its not me but a girl wonders. A thrill none the less.

Thank you for your faithfulness to Southern Matriarch. If there are things you would like to see me cover besides my most perfect and beautiful grandchildren let me know. Happy stitching.

Easter Sewing-Verse II

 

More Easter. Don't love those little blue hands in the background? Two years old aren't really versed in the fine nuances of dying Easter eggs. They don't finesse them when they are hunting them in the yard either. "Craaaack" was heard on several occasions. That is okay. He had fun.

Once again when looking for something else, I found what I wanted to make for Wildman this year. It is a Cindy Foose design called poetically enough, Raglan Sleeve Boy's Shirt. It works.

It came from an old issue of Creative Needle again. Seems to be a trend. This is a great issue.

It is made from Imperial Broadcloth for the shirt and shorts lining, the shorts are a 100% cotton broadcloth. Both from the stash closet. I love the French bias trim on the collar, sleeves and cuffs. As well as the doubled up buttons. Though his mother wasn't too fond of those doubled up buttons. I think they are cute.

The shorts are Children's Corner Michael. I like the flat front waistband though I did have a bit of a fiddly time with the back waistband.

I used buttonhole elastic in the back of the pants. It allows the waistband to fit more snugly for a skinny little Wildman. Tall and lean like his Dad. It is available at many online retailers. I was not able to find it locally. 

It is tough to get a decent picture of a boy that never stops moving. Here he has begun to dig in the planters at the mall and his shirt tail is hanging out. They have spotted the train so 4 full size adults will cram their way into teeny tiny train cars. And look excited about it.

Two year old "fits" are in full swing. I don't remember what sin against mankind had been committed here but he was not happy. Look at the size of those feet! His parents are going to have to take out a loan to keep him shoes.

More Easter on the way.....

Easter Sewing-At Last

At long last the particulars of my Easter sewing marathon. I really need to get a better handle on this time management thing. I'm not really sure how to do that. As I have said before, I can't spend time both here in this chair and at my sewing machine at the same time. If I could cure that little problem I would have it made. Well that is just the beginning of the problems I need to fix. None of those are any easier. Here is the littlest bit in his Easter button on suit. First off because I have had a couple of emails asking, his shoes come from J-Ray Shoes in Mobile, AL. Best service, hands down! Don't you love those chubby knees?

Momma went shopping in the stash closet and came up with this aqua micro check. Perfect color for Easter. A little departure from the usual blue for a little boy. The shirt is white Imperial broadcloth. Thanks Rita for that pleated insert I won as part of the "Pot O Gold" at our chapter meeting. Didn't have to pleat, could get started right off with the fun, stitching. I hate prep work. I am not usually a big fan of finish work either. I want to do the middle parts.

Children's Corner Patterns

The pattern is an oldie but goodie. Children's Corner "David". Available from many heirloom retailers as well as Children's Corner Inc itself. I have not made this pattern since my 31 yr. old son was 2. So a long 29 years. Suffice it to say, my collars and piping have gotten much better in 29 years. This too was Momma's choice. I did redraft the collar to make it a smaller.

The smocking plate came from an old Creative Needle. Mar/Apr 1990.

Just when you thought it was safe to throw those old magazines out. I actually stumbled across this looking for something else. Isn't that always the way? Momma liked it and we ran with it. I did smock it with three strands instead of four to make him a tad smaller, and squeezed the borders in for the same reason. If I had been thinking, I would have taken a couple of rows out of his egg to make him even shorter. A 9 month old doesn't need 12 rows of smocking across his chest.

Excuse the bad cell phone picture of a picture but that is all this Mimi has. I think he outshines the Easter Bunny in cuteness. Those dimples are just killer.

Next up, Wildman. Have you signed up for your Sew-Cation? SAGA's National Convention in Orlando? I have. I plan on taking a faggoting class with Phyllis Brown, also her eyelets class, collar drafting with Lyn Weeks, and a redwork class with Jeannie Baumeister.

Time to Take a Sewcation

Come to Sunny Florida, get away from it all and take a Sewcation! Pattern drafting, adding special details, handbag construction, silk ribbon embroidery, smocking galore, fun contests, and soaking up the sun with your friends – what could be better than attending the annual Smocking Arts Guild of America convention in Orlando, Florida?  SAGA’s annual convention is filled with creative classes in smocking, embroidery, fine machine sewing and related needle arts.  This year is shaping up to be one of the best, with a slate of “Debut Classes” being presented by talented teachers on topics that include pattern drafting, adding smocking to an adult garment, a stunning silk ribbon smocked purse, and a lady’s Madeira nightgown - there is something for everyone. Registration for all these never-before offered programs opens May 1st.

 

 SAGA will welcome Kenneth King and Liesl Gibson as special guest teachers. Kenneth King, renowned for his exquisite couture techniques, will be teaching a handbag construction class and presenting a lecture entitled, “Evolution of an Evening Wrap” at the opening reception. Come hear about Kenneth’s design process and see a creation go from design concept to finished product.

Bringing her fresh and youthful style, Liesl Gibson, the creator of Oliver + S patterns, will be offering a free lecture, open to the public, entitled “Many Looks, One Pattern.” She will also be teaching a series of classes designed for the novice stitcher, entitled “Classics with a Twist.” The classes will cover basic pattern alterations, details that make a difference, as well as a wallet construction class. Come check out our Facebook page for some free giveaways from Kenneth and Liesl!

SAGA is always involved with community service through their Wee Care program. Members around the country and internationally, stitch gowns, caps, and blankets for bereavement programs for premature babies. Thankfully, many of these babies grow up to be strong… but the program also offers comfort to those parents who are not as fortunate. This year SAGA is running a special Wee Care contest with a grand prize of a husiff stitched and donated by member Mary Noll. Husiff is the middle English word for housewife and a husiff is a portable cloth kit to carry sewing tools.

Not able to join us in Orlando, don’t miss out on all the fun – go to www.smocking.org to find a local chapter near you and make some new stitching friends, or connect online through the websmockers chapter and our Facebook page. If you want to learn to smock, we have correspondence courses, our popular SAGA Stitches programs and through our chapters, a mentoring program. Members also receive our quarterly publication, SAGANews filled with interesting articles and projects. See you in Orlando!

Easter 2014

Happy Easter! My mailbox is once again exploding asking where I am. Sewing like a madwoman. You can't sit in this chair and sew as well. With three grands, it was a slide into home finish for this Mimi. Have to pace myself better next time.  And I THOUGHT I was! I have several posts planned and will try to be better. There is so much going on in the sewing room these days.

Peanut on his first Easter.

Princess and Wildman after Mass this morning.

Spring has come to this part of the country and it is glorious. Couldn't have asked for better weather. I hope your spring is recharging you as well. It has been hard fought for many this year. I can't wait to start some planting.

Happy Easter, faithful reader.

Be Back Soon

This has been me for the past ten days. I hope to be back soon. I have some things to show you. Surely Spring is almost here.

Smocking Exhibition at Lacis

If you are a lover of smocking, the needle arts, fashion, fabric manipulation or fashion history, don’t miss this once in a lifetime opportunity to see the exhibit Smocking, Fabric Manipulation and Beyond, at the Lacis Museum in Berkeley, California. Gathered in one place, you will find amazing pieces that span the decades and demonstrate the versatility of smocking. From the homely shepherd’s frock to the dress worn by Anne Hathaway in Les Miserables, the breathtaking dress recently featured in Threads magazine to the work of modern artisans, it is all gathered at the Lacis Museum in Berkeley California from March 8th  through October 4th, 2014. The opening reception is March 13th and special classes and lectures are planned for the 13th through the 15th.

The impetus for the exhibit began with Sarah Douglas’ donation to the Lacis Museum of all her smocking tools, research and plates. Sarah was instrumental in the revival of smocking in the 1980s and was involved with the Smocking Arts Guild of America (SAGA), a not for profit guild formed at that time to help preserve and foster the art of smocking and related needlearts. As word of the donation spread, Nelli Durand and Mimi Ahern, also part of smocking’s revival in the 1980s, also donated their collections. The Lacis Museum joined with SAGA, and the Cable Car Cablers, the local chapter of SAGA, to collect and display pieces of this art form from around the country. 

The art of smocking arose from the necessity to fit the fabric to the body. Without the skills of tailoring, the alternative was manipulate the fabric itself by simply gathering the fabric where it was too loose and securing the gathers by stitching across them creating a stretchable, comfortable fitting garment. The shaping would soon go beyond simple fitting to providing form to the garment as well as decoration through the use of elaborate embroidery on the pleats. Eventually the technique would become an independent art form free from any necessary function.

SAGA is sponsoring the opening of the exhibit March 13th-15th with a lecture on the history of smocking, classes in smocking on the 14th and 15th, and a reception on the 13th that includes a behind the scenes tour. Space is limited. For more information and to reserve your spot go to www.smocking.org.

The Stars Align

A couple of days ago while on the phone with a friend I had the occasion to look into my stash closet where most of the Mimi-mades are kept. On a hanger hung this sweet fella. It was a UFO. A UFO sooooo close to being finished. This project was started as a baby gift that never came to fruition. Do you have any of those? I have way too many to count. Anyhoo, I spotted this little gem, realized Peanut is coming for a visit this weekend and motivation struck!

Old Fashioned Baby "Baby's Summer Clothes"

On numerous occasions I have professed my love for patterns by The Old Fashioned Baby. They go together as they should, if it says 16 pounds, it fits 16 pounds. Every time. That being said, this hands down has to be my F.A.V.O.R.I.T.E. pattern Jeannie B has published. Favorite! This is not the first one I have made.

It is featured here made from a lawn and poly/cotton pique.

Again here from a seersucker and poly/cotton pique. I have a serious crush for this pattern. There is something about the diaper shirt over the romper with those offset buttons that make my heart sing.

Here is the long version of the diaper shirt for Wildman's coming home gown. There is also Peanut's coming home gown in the newest issue of Sew Beautiful where I used this pattern to adapt another daygown. Be on the lookout for the new issue. Serious crush on this pattern.

Finished! The romper is made from Imperial batiste and the diaper shirt is of course, Spechler-Vogel poly/cotton pique. Antique buttons finish the shirt. I did use snaps on the crotch of the romper. I normally wouldn't, but Peanut goes to daycare. Trying to make diaper changes easier for them.

When I found it hanging in the closet, all that was left to finish on this little cutie was sew the buttons and snaps on the shirt and romper then about 30 minutes of embroidery. Like I said, so close. Why hadn't I finished it before? $64,000 question.

Isn't he cute? I am cutting it close as to whether this will fit Peanut or not. I sure hope so. If not, it will be waiting on the next arrival. And no we don't have one on the way; but if we did, I am ahead of the game! If you haven't tried this pattern I encourage you to do so. If it doesn't fit, I can make another one that is lengthened in the crotch. It takes no time to make.

Keep stitching, faithful reader.

Taming the Rayon Beast

What takes eight hours, a few drinks and several swear words? Three and a half cast on flowers. Three and a half flowers were all I had to show for myself. I am not certain I am 100% happy with them but I am moving on. I did find a few tips that helped when working with the rayon thread.

Rayon thread has a wonderful luster or shine to it. When used for smocking and embroidery, the stitches really reflect the light. That sparkle and shine comes with a price though. Having to handle and deal with the rayon thread. After a few fits and starts, it soon became the principle of the matter. I was not going to be defeated. Some people call me patient, it really is just a stubborn streak a mile wide. Here are the things I found that worked. Hopefully, they will help you too.

When you strip the rayon floss (separating the strands), you get a clue as to why it is a bit troublesome. See all those kinks and curliness? The fiber has quite a spring to its step. After a few missteps and some funky looking stitches I knew I had to try something different.

I tried pressing the thread with an iron which helped but it kept me tied to the ironing board. I can't sit and watch Downton Abbey in my comfy chair from there. After some thought, I remembered this little fella we got as a table favor at  SAGA convention one year. It is a piece of sponge in a hard plastic, snap close box. The use for this is most often for stripping and dampening floss for picture smocking, to make the threads lay ribbon-like when trying to stack cable stitches in picture smocking. I sprayed enough starch on the sponge to dampen it, ran my rayon thread across it and

Voila! Much smoother thread. Much less chance of knotting and tangling, thus much easier to work with. The difference between using the starch versus beeswax or Thread heaven is I knew it would be water soluble and rinse right away with next to no effort. If you don't have one of these handy things just purchase an old fashioned sponge, cut it into small pieces and store it in a left over plastic container. Let it dry out before you close the container up to store. Otherwise you might be surprised with a smelly, moldy sponge when you go to open it the next time.

Another thing I did while working the flowers was leaving the tails quite long while I was handling it. I trimmed them to a more normal 1/4"-3/8" long tails when I was ready to construct my collar but wanted to wait until I was done working it in my hands before doing that. The threads unravels like it is its job! In addition to that I used, (shhhhhhh don't tell) a teeny spot of fray-check on the thread ends after I trimmed them. I only used a teeny teeny amount. And just on the thread ends, not  on my garment piece. Just enough to knock down the chance of the end of the threads unravelling. No matter how many times I instruct Princess' momma to hand wash, this garment is going to find itself in a washing machine, I just know it.  I need that thread to not come undone. Be VERY careful when getting fray-check anywhere near your project. It is NOT removable if you drip it on your garment.

Another tip was making a few practice flowers after the first one I tried on my collar was a jacked up mess, as you can see on my traced collar piece. It helped to work out how the feel and performance of the thread was going to work. I know, most people hate practice stitches. So do I, but after I took the same flower out twice because I couldn't get it to work, I knew I needed to step back and re-think this.

Ta-da, my first finished cast-on pansy flower. Eight hours later. The instructions "instructed" making all of the petals pink for this colorway. I felt a rebellious streak hit me and decided I didn't want to do them in all pink. This is for the collar of the jacket to accompany Princess' Easter dress. "Primrose" by Gail Doane. It is featured on the cover of Beautiful Bishops by Country Bumpkin. More to come on the Easter dress.

Until next time, faithful reader.