Sorry I have been "absent" for several days. Just a thing. Thanks to all who emailed to make sure I was okay. Since a friend asked me about a method of piping application I use, I decided it was a good thing to write a tutorial post about.
We already know that I have a plethora of pet peeves. :) One of them is lumpy, bumpy piping. For me this goes hand in hand with sleeves that are inserted flat. I HATE that seam allowance that is visible at the sleeve cuff or edge. HATE IT! I always, even in doll clothes if I can, insert my sleeves into the garment in the round. In other words, I sew the garment side seam, construct my sleeve and then insert it into the garment. I think it looks and feels more finished as well has to be more comfortable.
I also seem to enjoy making things more "fiddly". Why do it quick and easy when you can take the long road around? One of the finishes I do that could be considered more fiddly is continuous piping. Nothing screams "loving hands at home" to me more than bumpy piping joins. So this is how I do it. Lots of pictures to follow. You know me, if one picture is good, a dozen must be better.And as always, click the photo to enlarge and descriptions are below the photos.
First assemble your supplies; we will assume we are making a lined cuff with piping at the edge. Shown in the top photo.
- cuff piece with lining
- bias strip
- blue marker
- piping trimming template i.e Darr's Piping Magic or Piping Hot's Groovin' Piping Tool.
- rotary cutter/mat
- bamboo skewer (not shown)
Assemble your piping by inserting cording inside bias strip lengthwise, fold strip over cording and stitch by machine. I use an edge stitch foot, so I can ride the blade of that foot along the cording that is encased in the bias strip. You can also use a piping foot, open toe foot, buttonhole foot or applique foot. Whichever you are most comfortable with. I use the bamboo skewer to hold the sides of the bias together. There are specific tools for this that you can purchase but will admit that I can usually lay my hand on the three cent skewer more often than the $3 special tool. And if I lose the skewer I am not upset. I just grab another one.
Trim the seam allowance of your completed piping to 1/4". I use the piping magic tool and a rotary cutter. My cuff is using a 1/4" seam allowance.
I have already sewn and pressed open the seams of the sleeve cuff to form a continuous circle. Do the same to the cuff lining. On small baby clothes I find it easier, to turn the cuff or sleeve wrong side out, then stitch from "inside" the circle. Matching your raw edges, stitch piping to cuff. I don't start at the beginning of the piping, I start about 1/2 to 3/4" in from the end. You will see why later.
Continue stitching to within 1/2 to 3/4" of the end of the piping. Take cuff out from the machine. This will be the result. You will have partially attached piping to your cuff. Don't panic.
Fold back and butt the folded piping ends together where it will join. Mark with a blue pen.
Unpick the stitching that you used to make your piping only far enough back to be able to stitch a seam where you marked the piping bias strip. If you look closely you can see where I removed the stitches in the piping. Pulling the cording out of the way, stitch on your marking, trim the seam and press open.
Laying your two cording ends next to one another, trim both.
Ta-da, your piping cord is ready to encase again as you finish stitching your piping to the cuff.
Fold the bias back over your cording, holding with your tool. Stitch the rest of your piping to the cuff to complete the circle.
Insert the cuff lining, with right sides together encasing the piping between the cuff and lining, match raw edges. Here is where my skewer comes in really handy. I "mark" with the skewer the lining fabric right up next to that cord that is underneath. It forms a valley of sorts. I run the blade of my edge stitch foot right along that valley. I find this more successful than using the first stitching of the piping to the cuff as a guide. There is only one layer of fabric here over the piping, so it is easier to "see" the impression of where the cording is under there.
Turn it over and you can see where my second stitching of attaching the lining is inside my orginal piping attachment. So no pesky stitching showing on the right side. (You guessed it, another peeve.) Turn right side out and press.
Voila!!!!! The dark line is under the piping seam so you can tell where it is. Now doesn't that look better than that trying to tuck in the piping ends or overlapping the ends? I think so too.
I hope this helps you. Let me know if you have any questions.